12,000 Beer Bottles, One Dragon, and a Hell Tunnel

I walked into this pagoda thinking, “Okay, another temple.” Then I saw the dragon. Covered in beer bottles. Green bottles, brown bottles, old wine labels still stuck to them. 12,000 of them. And you can climb inside its belly all the way up to the head. 🍾 Welcome to Linh Phuoc Pagoda — the beer bottle dragon pagoda that shatters every expectation you have about Buddhist temples.

This is not a quiet, meditative retreat. It is loud, wild, covered in broken dishes, and absolutely worth it. I went on a Thursday morning and spent two hours with my neck craned upward, trying to count the beer labels on the dragon’s tail. If you are planning your own trip to the Central Highlands, I always start by scanning flight deals to Da Lat — it locks in the route before anything else. From the city centre, the pagoda is an easy fifteen‑minute ride. Having your own rental car gives you the freedom to visit the temple and then explore the surrounding countryside at your own pace.

🐉 The Dragon That Drinks Beer (Sort Of)

The star of Linh Phuoc Pagoda is undeniably the dragon. It snakes across the courtyard, its body a mosaic of glass fragments, broken plates, and thousands of beer bottles. You can see the labels: Bia Saigon, Hanoi Beer, occasional Heineken. Monks collected the bottles from local restaurants and recycling yards over several years. The result is a shimmering, multicoloured beast that glitters under the highland sun.

And yes — you can walk inside it. A narrow staircase winds through the dragon’s body, lit by small coloured windows made from bottle glass. The walls curve around you, the broken‑ceramic scales pressing in on both sides, until you emerge at the head with a view over the entire pagoda complex. Kids run up and down the staircase, shrieking with delight. Adults follow, trying to read the labels on the bottles that form the dragon’s eyes. It is surreal, playful, and unlike anything I have seen in a place of worship. If you enjoy discovering off‑beat attractions around Da Lat, you might also like my review of the Crazy House — another spot where architecture refuses to behave itself.

💎 The Broken Glass Pagoda

The dragon is just the beginning. The entire pagoda complex is built from shattered ceramic and glass. The main tower looks like it is wearing a glittering rainbow dress — every inch covered in tiny mosaic tiles. Even the flower pots are smashed plates reassembled into lotus shapes. The walls along the corridors depict Buddhist stories in broken‑glass murals, and the effect is mesmerising.

And yet, amid all this glitter, real monks pray inside the main hall. Incense drifts through the air. The sound of chanting mixes with the chatter of tourists climbing the dragon. It is a genuine, working pagoda that happens to be covered in recycled beer bottles. For another temple experience that offers a completely different energy, check out my guide to the peaceful 48‑meter Buddha — a silent giant hidden among rice fields west of Nha Trang.

🔥 The 18 Levels of Hell

And then there is the underground tunnel. “18 Levels of Hell” — dark, narrow, with life‑sized statues of sinners getting tortured. Demons pull out tongues. Souls are boiled in cauldrons. The lighting is dim and slightly flickering, the air noticeably cooler than the sunny courtyard above. I walked through slowly, half‑horrified, half‑fascinated. A group of small children ran past me, laughing and pointing at a statue of a man being sawn in half. It was one of the most bizarre moments of my entire trip.

The tunnel is not for the faint‑hearted, but it is unforgettable. It also provides a stark contrast to the glittering beauty above ground — a reminder that Buddhist teachings cover both the beautiful and the terrifying. If you want a break from the intensity afterward, there are plenty of hotels in Da Lat where you can decompress in the cool pine‑scented air.

🚂 The Vintage Train to Trai Mat

One of the best parts of visiting Linh Phuoc Pagoda is getting there. Right next to the temple sits Trai Mat Station — the final stop of Da Lat’s vintage railway. You can board the old‑fashioned train at Da Lat Station in the city centre and ride through pine forests and vegetable fields to reach the pagoda. The journey takes about 25 minutes and costs roughly 105,000 VND one way. It is slow, scenic, and genuinely charming. The train runs several times daily, but I recommend taking the morning departure to arrive before the crowds.

If you prefer a faster route, a Grab or taxi from the city centre costs around 150,000 VND and takes 15–20 minutes. For those who want to bundle the pagoda with other attractions, you can browse Da Lat tours and experiences that often include Linh Phuoc along with the Crazy House, the old railway station, and the flower gardens.

🕘 Practical Information

• 🎟️ Entry: Completely FREE. There is a donation box inside if you wish to contribute.
• ⏰ Opening Hours: Daily from 7:00 AM to 5:00 PM.
• 📍 Address: 120 Tự Phước, Phường 11, Đà Lạt.
• 🧥 Dress Code: Cover your shoulders and knees — this is still an active temple where monks live and pray.
• ⏱️ Time Needed: 1–1.5 hours. Longer if you arrive by vintage train and want to soak in both the journey and the pagoda.
• 📸 Best Photo Spot: The staircase inside the dragon, looking up toward the head. Use a wide‑angle lens if you have one.

💡 My Honest Tips

• Go early. Arrive by 8:00 AM to have the dragon almost to yourself. By 10:00 AM, tour groups start arriving and the staircase gets crowded.
• Bring small notes for donation. It is not required, but the monks maintain the entire complex on a very modest budget.
• Wear comfortable shoes. The staircase inside the dragon is narrow and uneven in places. Flip‑flops are a bad idea.
• Check the train schedule in advance. The vintage train does not run as frequently as you might expect, and the timetable changes seasonally. Ask at your hotel or at Da Lat Station before you go.

💎 Verdict: Loud, Wild, and Absolutely Worth It

This is not peaceful. It is loud, wild, covered in broken dishes, and absolutely worth the trip. I have never seen anything like this beer bottle dragon pagoda, and I suspect I never will again. Come for the dragon, stay for the hell tunnel, leave confused and happy. 🍾🐉

For another Dalat attraction that feels like stepping into a fever dream, check out the lost Hobbit village — a fairy‑tale park with an underground wine cellar. One place covers everything in beer bottles; the other covers everything in moss. Da Lat really is the strangest city in Vietnam, and I love it for that.

Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend experiences I have personally tested and loved.