Honestly, I kept postponing my visit to this famous pagoda. Another temple, a tourist must‑see, crowds, souvenirs… I thought I had seen it all. But curiosity (and my friends’ photos) finally won. And you know what? This place surprised me. It turned out to be nothing like I had imagined. This is the home of the most impressive white Buddha Vietnam has to offer.
🐉 How the Dragon Descended the Mountain: A Brief History
To understand this place, you need to know its story, and it is worthy of a mini‑series. Picture this: 1886. A monk named Thích Ngộ Trí builds a small wooden hut on top of Trại Thủy Mountain and calls it «Đàng Long Tự,» meaning «Temple of the Slowly Flying Dragon.»
Everything went well until 1900, when a powerful typhoon struck Nha Trang. The first sanctuary was completely destroyed. But the monks did not give up. Instead of rebuilding on the windswept peak, they moved the temple down to the foot of the mountain, where it stands today. Since then, the pagoda has changed its name, become the main Buddhist center of Khánh Hòa Province, and undergone several major renovations, transforming into the majestic site we know now.
🏯 First Impressions: Mosaics and the Spirit of Asia
Entering the grounds is an event in itself. You pass through a three‑arched gate decorated with intricate glass and ceramic mosaics. You can immediately tell this is not just a tourist attraction but an active temple. To the left stands a monument to the monk Thích Quảng Đức, and to the right, a large brown stupa where incense smolders in memory of the departed.
The temple complex itself is a beautifully maintained garden filled with bonsai, potted chrysanthemums, and shaded benches. The air smells of incense, prayers hum softly, and somewhere in the background, leaves rustle quietly. Stone pillars with tiny shrines inside line the perimeter. The atmosphere is calming and sets the right mood.
🦶 The Main Challenge: 152 (or 193?) Steps
After taking in all the ground‑level beauty, you finally face the main test. The staircase. Being the meticulous type, I counted: some sources say 150, others claim 193 — I counted 152 steps. The exact number does not matter; what matters is that the climb is real.
My advice: do not play the hero. If you arrive at noon, this is not just a staircase; it is a blazing hot frying pan. Bring water, wear comfortable shoes, and take your time. This is not a race; it is part of the spiritual journey (or at least a good cardio workout).
🛌 A Secret Stop: The Reclining Buddha
Around the 44th step, there is a turn to the left. Do not miss it! Hidden in the shade of the trees lies an enormous white statue of the Reclining Buddha entering nirvana. The statue measures 17 meters long and 5 meters high. He looks so peaceful that you almost want to lie down beside him and forget the hustle and bustle. This is a perfect «chill zone» before the final push.
✨ He. The White Buddha.
And so, after conquering the last steps, you see him. A 24‑meter statue of Shakyamuni Buddha (Kim Thân Phật Tổ) seated on a lotus flower. This white Buddha Vietnam landmark dominates the skyline.This is truly the largest Buddha statue in Vietnam. He is visible from almost any point in the city.
And here is where things get interesting. Unlike many other statues, this Buddha does not smile. His face is stern, detached. He does not try to please you. Standing at his feet, you genuinely feel as though you are taking an important exam, and he is the chief examiner.
This feeling is not accidental. Inside the pedestal are bas‑reliefs depicting monks engulfed in flames — a reference to the tragic events of the Buddhist crisis of the 1960s, when monks self‑immolated in protest against persecution. This is not just decoration; it is a reminder of the price paid for faith. That is why he looks so serious.
🌆 The Reward: A Panorama of the City
But enough of the somber notes. Walk around the statue, and you will receive your well‑deserved reward. From this hilltop, you get perhaps the best panoramic view for miles around. The entire city spreads out before you: the curving coastline, the endless sea, misty mountains, and the rooftops below. This spot is especially beautiful as the city begins to glow with evening lights.
By the way, if you are still planning your trip and unsure how to best organize your time, I have a ready‑made route — a 9‑day itinerary that details exactly in what order to explore the city and its surroundings so you miss nothing.
🛡️ Practical Tips: How Not to Ruin Your Visit
To make your visit perfect, here are a few essential rules, tested from personal experience.
- ❌ DO NOT come at noon. You will melt under the sun, and the crowds will be unbearable.
- ✅ DO arrive early in the morning (around 7:00 AM) or after 4:30 PM. The light is softer, there are fewer people, and you can soak in the atmosphere in peace and quiet.
- ❌ DO NOT dress like you are going to the beach. Save the shorts and bare shoulders for the promenade. This is an active temple.
- ✅ DO dress modestly: cover your shoulders and knees. If you forget, you can borrow a robe at the entrance.
- ❌ DO NOT accept «free» incense. Vendors may offer it at the entrance and then demand payment.
- ✅ IGNORE pushy «guides» and beggars. Unfortunately, they can be found here. Go your own way and enjoy the visit.
- ❌ DO NOT rush. You came to a temple, not a race. Sit on a bench in the garden and listen to the silence.
- ✅ DO visit the Reclining Buddha. This small side adventure adds color to your visit.
- ❌ DO NOT expect a restroom or café at the top. All facilities are at the bottom.
- ✅ DO bring water and wear comfortable shoes.
💰 Cost and How to Get There
- Entrance: FREE. Any request for payment is a scam. If you wish to leave a donation, place money in the official boxes.
- Address: 22 Đường 23/10, Phường Phương Sơn, Nha Trang.
- Getting there: The easiest way is by taxi or Grab. A ride from the center costs just pocket change. You can also walk if you are staying nearby and do not mind the heat.
🆚 Is It Worth It? Long Son vs. The Golden Pagoda
Honestly? If you just want to tick a box — go. It is free, quick, and central. But if you seek something more — solitude, silence, and an incredible energy — I would point you toward another place the guidebooks do not mention. That is the hidden golden pagoda on a mountaintop. There are no crowds, the view is far more spectacular, and the golden stupa shining in the sun will make you forget everything else. I have a separate detailed article about that secret spot.
💎 My Verdict
This pagoda is a classic. A place with history, atmosphere, and well‑deserved fame. Yes, it can get crowded, but the impressive scale of the white Buddha and the city view make climbing those 152 steps worth it at least once.
And if after exploring temples you crave a change of scenery and a refreshing dip, check out my review of Bai Dai Beach — a wild spot with oysters for pocket change and planes flying overhead. The contrast will be absolutely cosmic.
For those who have not yet decided on accommodation, I also have a complete guide to Nha Trang’s neighborhoods and budget hotels by the sea. I break down all the options — from the lively north to the quiet south.
Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend experiences I have personally tested and loved.