The first time I went to Ben Thanh Market, I lasted exactly twenty minutes. The heat, the crowds, the constant «lady, you buy something?» — it is a lot. Then a local friend pulled me aside and said, «Go underground.» I had no idea what she was talking about. She pointed toward September 23 Park and told me to look for a staircase. What I found beneath that park changed my entire relationship with Saigon shopping. This is Central Market Saigon — the coolest, calmest, most air‑conditioned secret in District 1.
Central Market first opened in 2017, was briefly closed for a park renovation, and quietly came back better than ever in 2019. It is Saigon’s first — and still only — underground shopping and food complex. Spanning 11,000 m², it sits directly beneath September 23 Park, a green lung of the city that stretches between Phạm Ngũ Lão and the backpacker district. The location could not be more central, yet most tourists walk right over it without ever knowing it exists. If you are planning a trip to Ho Chi Minh City, this market deserves a spot on your itinerary right alongside the more famous landmarks.
🌬️ Ben Thanh’s Cooler, Calmer Cousin
You walk down the stairs, and suddenly everything changes. Cold air wraps around you. The relentless beeping of motorbikes fades into nothing. No aggressive sellers follow you. Nobody grabs your arm. The contrast with Ben Thanh is so stark that I genuinely laughed out loud the first time. One minute you are sweating through your shirt in the midday chaos; the next, you are strolling through a clean, brightly lit corridor, deciding whether to eat Vietnamese, Japanese, Thai, Lao, Cambodian, or Indian food for lunch.
The market is a mix of a food court, shops, Taka Plaza (a Japanese‑style retail section), and even a game zone. It took me about five minutes to find the entrance — the signage from street level is subtle, so look for the staircase near the park’s central path, close to Phạm Ngũ Lão Street. Once you are down, the layout is intuitive and easy to navigate. If you want a completely different kind of Saigon exploration after your underground feast, check out my guide to riding the open‑top bus at golden hour — it is the perfect way to see the city from above after spending the afternoon below it.
🍜 Food Paradise (With Seating!)
The food area has nearly 100 stalls selling dishes from across Asia. I ate a bowl of bún bò Huế, a bánh mì, a glass of sugarcane juice, and a cup of taro chè — all in one sweat‑free session. Prices are clearly marked, so you will not get slapped with the tourist tax that Ben Thanh is notorious for. A full meal runs between 40,000 and 80,000 VND, which is roughly what you would pay at a decent street stall, except you get air conditioning and an actual chair.
There is plenty of seating — long communal tables, individual stools, and even a few cushioned benches — so you do not have to balance your soup on your knees while squatting on a plastic stool. I sat next to a group of office workers on their lunch break, a young couple sharing a plate of gỏi cuốn, and a solo traveller methodically working his way through a Thai green curry. The atmosphere is relaxed, unhurried, and completely devoid of the frantic energy that defines so many of Saigon’s street‑food experiences. If you enjoy discovering calmer corners of the city, you might also like my feature on Nguyen Van Binh Book Street — another 100‑meter oasis of quiet, just a short walk from the chaos.
🛍️ Shopping Without the Stress
Beyond the food court, you will find rows of clothing stalls, souvenirs, bags, and shoes. The sellers are present and helpful, but they will not follow you around. You can browse in peace, pick things up, put them down, and walk away without a guilt trip. Prices are generally fixed or clearly displayed, which removes the exhausting back‑and‑forth of traditional market haggling.
There is also a Co.op Food outlet for snacks and essentials, a currency exchange counter with competitive rates, and even a telecom service booth where you can sort out a local SIM card if you have not already. The Taka Plaza section feels distinctly Japanese — minimalist, well‑organised, with a focus on lifestyle goods and accessories. I bought a pair of linen trousers for 150,000 VND and a handmade leather bookmark for 40,000 VND. Neither transaction involved sweating, shouting, or pretending to walk away.
🕘 Practical Information
- 📍 Address: Underground, 4 Phạm Ngũ Lão, Phạm Ngũ Lão Ward, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City (beneath September 23 Park).
- ⏰ Opening Hours: Daily from 10:00 AM to 10:00 PM.
- 🎟️ Entry: Completely FREE.
- 💰 What to Bring: Cash in small bills for food (most stalls do not accept cards), a camera for the surprisingly photogenic food court, and an empty stomach.
- 🛵 How to Get There: The market is a short walk from Phạm Ngũ Lão Street and the backpacker district. If you are arriving from elsewhere in the city, a Grab ride is cheap and fast. You can also rent a motorbike or car and park near the park.
🏨 Where to Stay & How to Get Around
Central Market sits at the edge of the backpacker district, making it incredibly convenient if you are staying in the Phạm Ngũ Lão area. You can book a hotel in District 1 within walking distance of both the market and the lively Bui Vien Walking Street. If you are arriving from Tan Son Nhat airport, pre‑book a reliable airport transfer to avoid the taxi scrum outside the terminal. The ride to District 1 takes about twenty to thirty minutes, depending on traffic.
For those who want to bundle their trip into a convenient package, check out flight + hotel deals to Ho Chi Minh City — it often saves money compared to booking separately. You can also browse tours and activities in Ho Chi Minh City that include a guided food tour of the underground market. And as always, protect yourself with travel insurance — even a bowl of bún bò Huế can surprise you.
💎 Verdict: The Chillest Market in Saigon
Central Market Saigon is not going to replace Ben Thanh in the history books. But if you want to escape the heat, try food from five countries in one meal, and shop without the haggle fatigue — this is your spot. It is modern, clean, and surprisingly chill. I walked out two hours later with a full stomach, a pair of trousers, and not a single drop of sweat on my shirt. In Saigon, that is a miracle.
For a completely different kind of Saigon experience — loud, chaotic, and absolutely electric — check out my guide to Bui Vien Walking Street. And if you want to see how old Saigon has reinvented itself in a vertical village of coffee and creativity, my feature on The Cafe Apartments is a perfect companion piece.
Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend experiences I have personally tested and loved.
